上装适体性研究

出版时间：2007-10  出版社：西安交大  作者：刘驰  页数：208  

内容概要

　　《上装适体性研究》是作者在英国曼彻斯特大学攻读博士学位期间研究工作的结晶，亦是作者多年在服装工程领域教学与研究的经验总结。主要研究服装结构对于服装适体性和运动功能性的影响，并从结构上解决或弱化造型与运动功能性的矛盾。《上装适体性研究》由七章组成。第一章介绍研究背景和目的。第二章研究三维人体扫描方法在人体非标准姿势测量中的应用。第三章通过石膏法的应用，获得不同姿势的人体原型，并精确测量人体尺寸。第四章以石膏法中所获得的不同姿势的原型为基础，利用服装软件“COAT4.1”设计不同的放松量进行纸样制作，从而制作出实际的服装。第五章设计并应用压力传感器，测量当人体处于不同姿势时服装与人体之间的压力。第六章通过不同姿势的人体尺寸调查，对适体成衣中的放松量效果进行评价。第七章对全书进行总结。

书籍目录

1.Introduction1.1 Garment-Making Systems1.1.1 HauteCouture1.1.2 BlockPatterns1.1.3 PatternDrafting1.2 BackgroundtotheResearch1.3 ProposedSolution1.4 AimsandObjectives2.LiteratureReview2.1 AStudyoftheShoulderGirdle2.1.1 DescriptionoftheShoulderGirdle2.1.2 TheFunctionoftheHumanBodyandtheClothingShoulderGirdle2.2 AnthropometricalStudyforClothingApplication2.2.1 SizingSystem-AnthropometricalStudy2.2.2 DevelopmentinAnthropometricMethods2.3 MovementFunctioninClothingComfortandFit2.3.1 HumanBodyMovement2.3.2 DescribingBodyMovement2.3.3 ApplyingDataonBodyMovementtoClothingDesign2.3.4 ClothingComfortandFit2.4 SystemofPatternConstruction2.4.1 Modelling2.4.2 DraftingSystem2.4.3 BlockPatternConstruction2.5 TheFittingProcessandEaseDesign2.5.1 GeneralBackgroundofFitting2.5.2 TypesofFit2.5.3 TheAmountofEase3.Comparisonof3DBodyScanningwithManualMeasurementofDynamicPostures3.1 Introduction3.2 Methodology3.3 TheManualMeasurementMethod3.3.1 ManualMeasurementResults3.3.2 AnalysisofExperimentalResultsofManualMeasurement3.4 Three-DimensionalBodyScanningMeasurementMethod3.4.1 HighlightLandmarksontheBody3.4.2 Three-DimensionalBodyScanningMeasurementResult3.4.3 AnalysisofExperimentalResultsof3DMeasurement3.5 ComparisonBetweentheResultof3DBodyScanningandManualMeasurementofDynamicPostures3.6 AnalysisofMeasurementErrors3.7 Summary4.DesignClothingbythePlasterMethod4.1 GeneralBackground4.2 ExperimentalWork4.2.1 PreparingtheExperiment4.2.2 ExperimentProcess4.2.3 ExperimentalResult4.3 ThePlasterCastPattern4.3.1 ThePatternfortheNaturalPosition4.3.2 ComparedthePlasterPatternsofTheseThreePostures4.4 CreationofCADPatternsDerivedfromthePlasterCast4.4.1 AboutCOAT4.14.4.2 CreationofCOATPatternfromPlasterCast4.5 PracticalGarmentDesign4.5.1 PatternDesignforLimitedMovement-BasedontheNaturalPosition4.5.2 PatternDesignforLooseFitBlouse-BasedonLiftl80PlasterCast4.5.3 PatternDesignforaSemi-FittedBlouse-BasedonH180PlasterCast4.5.4 ComparingPatternMeasurementsforDifferentLevelsofFit4.6 TheFabricChoice4.6.1 KESResultsandAnalysis4.6.2 MaterialAnalysisoftheChosenFabric4.7 TheFinishedRealClothes5.TransducerApplicationintheResearch5.1 ConstructionandOperationalPrinciplesofthePressureTransducer5.2 TransducerDesign5.2.1 TheFirstSensor5.2.2 TheSecondSensor5.2.3 TheThirdSensor5.2.4 TheFourthSensor5.3 TheOtherEquipmentRequiredintheExperiment5.4 TransducerCalibration5.5 ChoosingMeasurementPointsontheBody5.6 ExperimentProcedure5.6.1 ResultsforClothesBasedontheNaturalBlock5.6.2 ResultsforClothesBasedontheL180Block5.6.3 ResultsforClothesBasedontheH180Block5.7 AnalysisandConclusionsfromGarmentPressureMeasurements6.SizeSurvey6.1 PurposeofSurvey6.2 SubjectSource6.3 SettingMeasurementItems6.4 AnalysisBasicMeasurementsoftheSurvey6.5 AnalysisParticularMeasurementsoftheSurvey6.5.1 GirthChangeforDifferentPostures6.5.2 LengthDifferencesinDifferentPostures6.6 ClothingSizeSurveyforFittingTest6.6.1 FurtherAnalysisoftheSubjectswithSmallSize6.6.2 SampleSource6.6.3 MeasuringtheClothes6.6.4 AnalysisofEaseinDifferentPartsforDifferentPostures6.7 ComparetheResultsfromPlasterMethodwiththatfromSizeSurvey6.8 OptimisingStyleandDynamicComfortfromSleeveConstruction6.8.1 AddingEasetotheBacktoImproveDynamicComfort6.8.2 AddingAppropriateBackandSleeveWidthforComfort6.8.3 ConcealingthePleat6.8.4 ManipulatingStyle，ProportionandConstructiontoProvideEase6.8.5 TheHemSolutionWhentheArmsAreRaised6.8.6 SettingtheFront-BackPartitionImproveDynamicFreedom6.8.7 DetachableGarmentSegmentsHelptoDetermineBodyExpansion6.9 Summary7.ConclusionsandRecommendationsforFurtherWorkReferencesAppendix1Appendix2Appendix3Appendix4Appendix5Acknowledgement